I spent most of today traipsing about the city and finally just sat down to rest and regroup. It seems like the only time I have the energy to write is the weekend, so I’m trying to carry over the momentum from last weekend and put finger to keyboard again today.
Today was another rare day when I availed myself of public transportation and crossed the bay into the big city. For those of you not familiar with the area, I should mention that it’s pretty much understood here that when you say ‘the city,’ you mean San Francisco. Apparently Oakland is like a backwater hick town in comparison. Or something. Anyway, I went to San Francisco. That’s what I’m trying to say. I had an appointment with a friend of friend who does massage and reiki.
I took BART to the Mission (or ‘the Mish’, if you’re hipster and annoying), which has historically been home to many of the city’s Mexican-American immigrants. It’s been a roughish area in the past, but is being increasingly gentrified and – as tends to happen – is now full of trendy coffee shops, pseudo-dive bars, and vegan restaurants (and yes, I’ve been to all of the above, and yes, I still think gentrification in this area is a tricky thing). For example, when Gina was in town, we hit the Mission and visited: a) an independent bookstore, b) a vegan sushi restaurant, and c) a coffee house with a communist theme (red walls, hammer and sickle on the cups, etc.) Enough said.
Having now gotten lost a few times in the city, it’s becoming clear that the locals don’t conceive of directions and space in quite the same way those wacky Tucsonans did. Now that I finally learned how to orient myself in a city by North-South-East-West, I find that it’s completely useless in the Bay Area. Finding myself this morning on 24th Street looking for due west, I asked a kindly postman if he knew which way I was facing.
“Way?” he said.
“Yeah, I’m looking for west.”
He turned slowly in a circle, glanced back and me and said, “where are you trying to GET?”
“Church Street.”
“Oh, it’s back that way,” he said, pointing over his shoulder.
(I think I need to just buy a compass.)
Twenty steep minutes later I found myself in Noe Valley, or what my San Francisco guidebook tells me used to be called “Nowhere Valley” and what I’ve frequently heard referred to as “Baby Valley.” It’s the kind of place where the sidewalks are chock-a-block full of tastefully dressed young couples pushing baby strollers, and where every other corner is inhabited by a coffee shop or brunch place or cutesy high-end boutique. It’s not generally my kind of place, but is improved much by the beautiful architecture and the cozy little Lovejoy’s Tea Room, which dear Gina and I checked out last month after seeing the Frida Kahlo exhibit at the MOMA. It was exactly what it sounds like. A tea room. And it was lovely and joyful and all.
As I do nearly every time I find myself in the city, I took the opportunity again today to go on several completely pointless rambles. From Noe Valley, I walked up Dolores to Market Street, stopping to take pictures at Mission Dolores Park. I walked down Market, stopping to check out Mayor Newsom’s little Victory Garden experiment in front of City Hall, and then walked northward a bit into the Tenderloin District. I’ve been meaning to check out Brenda’s French Soul Food, which is the closest thing to home-style comfort food I’ve been able to find. But after a glance at the crowd huddled outside, and the lengthy wait list, I boomeranged back down to Market and braved the throngs of European tourists to weave my way back to BART. As has become tradition, a grabbed a few fragrant macarons at La Boulange on my way back east, and a loaf of Acme Bread from the shop in the Ferry Building.
And good God does that look like a lot of pointless name- and link-dropping. Sorry, forgive me. The people who’ve lived here will get it. I probably lost everyone else at “24th Street.” So, to you guys, ummm, I’ll show you when you get here.







